Monthly Archives: August 2020

Durnstein, marille, Wachau Valley

After another day in Vienna, on to Durnstein…

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As the heat wave subsided, we spent our last day in Vienna taking advantage of the plesant weather and strolling along the quay. We also got to watch the crew polishing the ship. The people who work on river cruise ships have distinct tasks and distinct uniforms. The crew of sailors who are responsible for docking, getting the ship through the locks, and keeping it shipshape, wear blue shirts and shorts on Uniworld ships. The sailors on the ship rafted next to us wore a uniform of orange t shirts and shorts as they busily swabbed the deck.

I don’t remember what company it was from, maybe Croisi Europe, as it was slightly smaller than the Princess. A bridge across the Danube is in the background. No doubt those sailors are preparing the ship for the next group to board.

On our last day in Vienna, only one tour was offered. It was part of the Masterpiece Collection and therefor had an additional cost. This was a visit to the Schonbrunn Palace which would last most of the afternoon.

The Rambler is not a fan of touring palaces – if you’ve seen one or two, you’ve seen them all. The gardens are another story, but this tour promised to spend much time in the Schonbrunn itself. Thus we didn’t sign up for the palace trip. Though it may sound heretical, the Ramblers never did see the famous Schoenbrunn Palace on any of our cruises tho we had opportunities.

The front facade of the Schoenbrunn Palace; It has a mere 1441 rooms of varying sizes. The public rooms are VERY ornate as you might expect. The kings and emperors who built them were showing off their wealth and power. As you can see, much walking is involved. Schoenbrunn Palace was constructed over a period of 300 years, starting in the 17th century and currently is administered by the Republic of Austria.
The Gloriette, the very famous architectural folly of the Schoenbrunn gardens which, by the way, are also enormous. The center portion of the Gloriette has recently been made into a cafe. Not a bad idea, as most people would appreciate some refreshments after wandering around the huge but beautifully kept gardens.

Shortly after the tired tour group returned at 5 PM, our crew got the Princess ready to sail to Rossatz, Austria. We would arrive at our next stop in the middle of the night. Rossatz was not our objective that morning. Instead it was a port of convenience for our visit to Durnstein.

Durnstein, a small town of around 800 inhabitants is one of the most picturesque stops along the Danube. The Ramblers had seen it twice before but only as our ship sailed past. First from the Beatrice on a cold December day and from the Maria Teresa during the prime tourist season.

This fascinating glimpse of Durnstein, its landmark blue and white church and the ruins of the castle where Richard the Lion heart was held captive made nearly everyone on board wish we were stopping there. But it wouldn’t actually be until our third trip on the Danube that we stopped there. This photo was taken with a powerful telephoto lens from the opposite bank. The castle ruins look close but they are not.

Because it has much to offer visitors, Durnstein is a popular stop for all the cruise companies although not all Danube cruises stop there. Because it is so popular, docking space is at a premium, and ships often have to stop at a close-by port instead of docking at Durnstein. Even the Durnstein docks are across the Danube from the town and accessed by a small ferry. Thus the Princess stopped at Rossatz and we were bussed to Durnstein.

The dock at Rossatz, not close to anything.

Since the Rossatz dock was not close to the town, the senior Rambler was coaxed into coming along for the ride. Fortunately there were many places to sit down and wait for us more determined sight-seers when we got to Durnstein. The beautiful sunshine of the previous days had left us but there was no rain in the forecast. We were lucky to avoid rain on this trip as Austria is the 11th rainiest country in the world. By this time, the gentle walkers had sorted themselves out, and if not walking with the senior Rambler, I might pair up with Laura from Florida or Kathy and Jean from Australia. We had become good friends by the end of the voyage and we all usually much preferred the slow pace of the gentle walkers.

There were three options for touring Durnstein; a visit to an organic wine estate with tasting, a visit to a saffron grower or spending time on your own in Durnstein. Uniworld provided a shuttle bus back to the ship for everyone who had gone to Durnstein on the hour from 10:30 to 12:30, as even those who took a tour would have free time afterwards. Durnstein is in the Wachau Valley. famous for beautiful scenery, picturesque villages and wine, but also for its apricots or marille as they are called in Austria.

A typical apricot orchard in the Wachau valley. These small trees were heavy with ripening fruit. AND they are picked when they are ripe, as the apricots are processed into preserves, liquors and many other products right in the valley. I had bought some last time, and wanted to get more. They are not sold in the US, unfortunately.

It also has a well justified reputation as a good place to shop for gifts to bring back home. Thus while Laura and Jean went off on tours, Kathy and I wanted only to tour Durnstein and visit the shops. The senior Rambler tagged along with us for a while and then turned back to wait and people watch. But first we had to get to the village…

Along the way we got a glimpse of not one but two castle ruins. The closer one is where King Richard spent several months in captivity. The Danube is on the left.

Unfortunately, the bus drop off spot was quite a ways from the little town. So the three of us strolled up the road towards our destination; it was a pleasant walk at first, a paved path along the Danube. On the way we got a good look at the ruined castle where Richard the Lion-heart was imprisoned for a time. King Richard angered an Austrian noble when he tossed his flag off the fortress walls whilst on the crusades. When he tried to make his way back to England without his retinue, Richard was captured and thrown into a dungeon. Tho he was later transferred to another castle, Richard was not released until a huge ransom was paid. The money was raised in England with much difficulty, by his mother Queen Eleanor of Aquitaine. It is possible to hike up to the picturesque ruin, but we would have enough trouble getting to the main street of Durnstein.

Our uphill climb. You know it is steep when the Austrians provide benches for resting along the way. Most of the tourist from the river cruise boats are older, and while some are amazingly fit, others are not.

Unfortunately, as we neared the village our path took an upward turn and when we got to its end, we saw with dismay that we had a choice of two ways to get there, both were very steep and paved with my nemesis, cobblestones. After a serious discussion, Kathy and I decided the further path was a better option, while the senior Rambler told us he would find his way to the bus stop and meet us there. It took us a while because when we reached the top , we found there was yet another uphill stretch before we got to the top. Then, to our dismay we found we were in a courtyard, in back of the Abbey and church. However, we could see the main shopping street accessible across a lumpy cobblestone courtyard.

When Kathy and I reached the top, we ended in this courtyard. We didn’t know it but if we had entered the gate on the left, it would have taken us to the Abbey and Church. We could however, see the main street of Durnstein to the right, with its row of shops and that’s where we headed. The cobblestones were particularly lumpy.

What we didn’t realize was that if we had ventured into the Abbey building on the left, we would have been able to able to access the church as well. There really hadn ‘t been any signs either in German or English to point us in the right direction, so we never did get to see the church interior. Of course we would have many more chances to tour historic churches on the cruise but we both felt just a little disappointed that we had missed it. NOT as disappointed as we would have been though if we had missed our chance to visit the charming Durnstein shops which was our primary goal.

Here is what we missed. There is so much going on inside the church that the photo almost looks like a double exposure. Luckily the Rambler didn’t see this picture until much later or I would have been very sorry I missed it. .Although, the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption dates to the 14th century, it was transformed into a blue and white baroque landmark 300 years later. Unfortunately the Augustinian monastery was dissolve along with many others, by reforming Emperor Joseph II. However it survived and is not back in the hands of the Augustinians. The church interior had been deteriorating for 200 years until restoration began in the 1980s. Not only has it been beautifully restored, but a museum has been added to showcase its history and treasures.

We were not disappointed. The shops lived up to their billing and both Kathy and I were able to find just what we were looking for. In fact it was fun to spend some time on an activity that was not educational, historical or inspiring. Just plain shopping was what we enjoyed that morning. The Rambler headed to the stores that sold Marillen products and there were several to choose from. In the end, I bought several bottles of marille liquor, two different varieties. Of course when flying these days, one has to be careful not to purchase too much of anything considered a liquid, and then pack it in the right bag for the trip home. I have had some edibles confiscated by the customs police in the EU before and didn’t want to make the same mistake.

One of the many shops that sold a variety of apricot products, along with cold drinks and non-food products with an apricot theme. It is amazing that these shops have their doors open to the outside and yet you see very few, if any flying insects. I bought my marille souvenirs at another shop but this one was the most picturesque.

With our purchases secured, it was time to find our way back to the bus stop. Of course, we could hardly get lost as there was one way in and one way out. This time we would have to carefully pick our way downhill towards the Danube and then head left. This was not so easy for the Rambler, as she has been paranoid about falling since hitting her head on concrete at home. Going down the steep cobblestone path was not easy, but with Kathy’s encouragement, we finally reached the road.

Not fancy, but just what we needed, and great tasting EisKaffe!

When we reached the large parking lot, we spied both the senior Rambler and a little hut that sold beverages and snacks. Although food and drink are so plentiful and easily accessible on a river cruise, there are a few times when they are not. Fortunately, not only did we have time, but there was also a place close by where we could enjoy one of my favorite Austrian beverages, an EisKaffe. Kathy had never had one but who can resist coffee and ice cream? Thus we got to enjoy an a treat alongside the Danube, after a very enjoyable morning.

Kathy shows her approval of the EisKaffe!

Mission accomplished, we boarded the next bus for a brief ride back to the River Princess. Of course, when we got back, they were already serving lunch, but the EisKaffe did not spoil our appetites too much. I will admit the senior Rambler and I don’t eat too much for lunch even tho the food is fresh, varied and tasty. Overindulgence at lunch generally encourages an afternoon nap, yet that is when our ship often cruises past the most beautiful vistas.

The River Princess set sail at 1:45 PM for Engelhartszell, Austria; we would arrive at 9 AM the next day. This would be just a brief stop to drop off the the cruisers who had signed up for the Bavarian River Bicycle Ride. Several others departed in a van for a Masterpiece Collection Cooking Class. More about this next time.

A last look at Durnstein as we sailed past on our way to Englehartszell and Passau. The ferry across the river is on the left foreground.

The rest of us enjoyed a pleasant morning cruise on the Danube until we arrived at Passau around 1:00 PM

Klosterneuburg Abbey, KunstHistoriches Museum, Stephensdom Vienna, Vienna ( Wien)

Touring Vienna from the River Princess

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Our first full day of the cruise offered several options for seeing some of the most interesting parts of Vienna; walking tours, bus tours and a combination bus-walking tour. The Rambler chose the gentle walker version of “Morning with the Masters,” an exclusive tour of the Vienna Art History Museum; exclusive because we arrived early in the morning before it was open to the public. There were at least 3 other options of tour, for the more active passengers. The senior Rambler opted to exercise yet another option, staying on board the Princess. LOL

In the afternoon, Uniworld provided a shuttle into the city. Since we had already seen quite a bit of Vienna on the Big Red Bus, the Rambler didn’t take advantage of this opportunity. The shuttle stop was at Schwedenplatz, which is on the other side of the Danube ,but more importantly a stop on the Vienna Metro/subway.

Schwendenplatz at night. Lots of things to do in the area.

That evening there was an opportunity to attend a concert of Mozart and Strauss music held exclusively for River Princess guests at the Klosterneuburg Abbey. The Rambler had attended two of these concerts on past cruises which were excellent, at two different Vienna concert halls. However, as this was a Masterpiece Collection event, it cost 79 Euros PP and would be held at the abbey instead of one of the many concert halls in Vienna. After checking with Heidicha, our cruise manager, I found that there were stairs with no railings in the historic monastery and decided to pass on it. This was a mistake. Everyone who went said it was wonderful, and even Jen and her 84 year old mother who was wheelchair bound were accommodated.

Klosterneuburg seen from above. The buildings form a huge square with the church at the front.

To repent for my omission, I have included some information on this amazing place that I wish I had seen. It was founded by St. Leopold in the 12th century and is one of the oldest and wealthiest abbeys in Austria. Although not in Vienna, it is in a close and wealthy suburb, north of Vienna, along the Danube. We would pass Klosterneuburg when we sailed the next night but we must have sailed past during the Captain’s welcome and port talk.

A relic of St. Leopold (part of his skull ) , id displayed at the Abbey. (t is an unusual reliquary to be sure. it looks like Leopold is wearing a very fancy skullcap!

It is a huge place that has been added to over the centuries but its final form took shape in the 18th century. There are many things to see and even a wine tasting of the Abbey’s wine is possible.

Needless to say there was plenty of space for a concert of Mozart and Strauss on the grounds. At night the Abbey is illuminated, which was another treat for the the River Princess cruisers when they left the the Abbey. If you have a chance to visit Klosterneuberg for a concert, take advantage of it.

One of the most beautiful altarpieces created by Nicholas of Verdun in the 12th century. It can be found in the side chapel, and is similar to the shrine of the Three Kings in the Cologne cathedral, also by Nicholas of Verdun.

Although the Abbey looks majestic today, it suffered much after Hitler’s forces took over Austria in the Anschluss (1938). The Augustinians were persecuted by Hitler, and most were forced to leave Klosterneuburg. Many were drafted into the army, others were killed in the resistance while ministering to Austrian Catholics. Even after the Russians drove out the Nazi’s, some Augustinians were killed by Russian troops when they tried to prevent the rape of Austrian women by the soldiers. Nevertheless, the Abbey has made a comeback since that awful period and is still under the leadership of an Augustinian Provost.

The Abbey church at night seems to have a timeless and mysterious aura.

Now back to the places the Rambler did visit that day. Our bus left the quay at 8:30 AM, as we would visit the Kunst Historiches Museum (Vienna Art Museum) before it opened to the public. We arrived at the Museum square just in time for the daily lawn watering; sprinklers everywhere. No wonder the surrounding lawns are so green.

Water, water everywhere. We had to step lively in order to miss getting wet.

The palatial museum opened in 1891, at the same time as the Museum of Natural History across the Maria Theresa Platz. Both were sponsored by Franz Joseph. While the Natural History Museum is devoted to the natural sciences, the Art Museum was built initially to house the art collection of the Hapsburg’s, which was extensive to say the least. However, the museum building itself is a work of art. Marble and gilding are everywhere and it is certainly worthy of the collection it houses.

The second floor of the museum, with stairs leading upward and the imposing dome at the top. The cafe looked like a great place to absorb the ambiance of the museum.

As for the collection itself, as you might expect, it is strong in works from the 500 years the Hapsburg ruled a substantial part of Europe.

The foundations of the collection were laid then and its main focus is still in the 17th century: 16th-century Venetian painting (Titian, Veronese, Tintoretto), 17th-century Flemish painting (Peter Paul Rubens, Sir Anthony Van Dyck), Early Netherlands painting (Jan van Eyck, Rogier van der Weyden) and German Renaissance painting (Albrecht Dürer, Lucas Cranach).

One of the creepiest but oddly fascinating paintings of the four seasons by Giuseppe Arcinboldo, titled Summer…

The museum also houses the largest collection in the world, of pictures by Pieter Bruegel the Elder, my favorite, as well as masterpieces by Vermeer, Rembrandt, Raphael, Caravaggio, Velazquez and the Italian Baroque painters.

Velasquez famous painting of the Spanish Infanta, Margarita Theresa in a blue dress.

But it also includes objects from the Hapsburg Kunstkammer(treasury) opened in 2013, which includes the famous gold salt cellar created by Benvenute Cellini and other valuable objects, a coin collection and even some modern artworks. Obviously there was much to see and the gentle walkers only had an hour before the museum opened to the public at 10 AM.

Our guide did a good job, taking us through the museum in a timely manner yet providing excellent commentary

We had an excellent guide who managed to lead us through the most famous galleries and we even got to the Kunstkammer gallery to view Cellini’s salt cellar which was stolen in 2003, and recovered in 2006. It had been buried in a box in the Austrian woods.

The famous salt cellar,. You can see why someone might think it would be easy to steal. The problem is what do you do with it after you have it. The answer, not much. It would be really criminal to melt it down for the gold, just as it would be hard to sell.

The museum was a place where the Rambler could have stayed for hours, but soon our time was up and we headed to our bus. Unfortunately neither the cafe, a perfect place to have a coffee, nor the gift shop, with many enticing objects on view was open yet. FYI for those forced to be armchair travelers in 2020, you can order from the Kunsthistoriches Museum shop online. Recently, the Rambler ordered two COVID masks from the gift shop. The shipping didn’t seem too outrageous altho they haven’t arrived yet…and your purchase supports this wonderful museum.

One of the narrow streets leading to the Stephansdom. As you can see, we had to dodge construction barriers on our way.

Our next stop was as close as our bus could get to the historic center of Vienna surrounding St. Stephens cathedral. There was much construction going on and we were lucky to have a guide who knew her way around the historic district. As we approached the amazing cathedral, we noticed a very unpleasant urine odor. Our guide explained that the fiaker(horse drawn carriage) drivers congregate around St. Stephens because it is a tourist magnet and unfortunately they have not found a way to stop the horses from urinating while the fiaker drivers wait for customers. It was quite nasty, made worse by the summer heat, but luckily, the cathedral is relatively air tight and the smell did not follow us inside.

This picture checks two boxes;; the crow of fiakers surrounding the church at the bottom, and the famous tiled roof complete with imperial eagles.

St. Stephens is an ancient church, founded in 1137 AD, and added onto through the centuries. If you are looking for stark simplicity, you will not find it here. But somehow, the interior blends into a glorious whole. Although Catholicism has fewer believers in Vienna these days, the Rambler saw many people kneeing in prayer, including a young monk. These ancient churches have the most uncomfortable kneelers, but they were built for the ages. Just don’t let one fall, it makes quite a noise.

A young monk praying at a side altar with light streaming in the stained glass window at the top.

There are two things the gentle walkers didn’t visit at St. Stephens. The first was the crypt under the building which houses the bones of long dead Viennese. It has several rooms; the first houses the tombs of religious, the second, intestines of the Hapsburg family in separate urns, and the innermost, heaps of skeletons and bones which have been there for centuries. However, there are no more burials in the crypt since Emperor Joseph outlawed all burials in the city in 1783. The Rambler would have found the crypt interesting in a creepy way, but I suspect most of our group would not have enjoyed it.

Piles of medieval bones in the last room of the crypt under the Stephansdom, many victims of the first super-Pandemic, the Black Plague.. Not a place to visit on All Hallow’s Eve.

The gentle walkers were also happy to skip climbing up the South Tower of the cathedral – only 343 narrow steps – and over 240 feet up, to the watchman’s room. The Rambler heard that it provides one of the best views in the city, but this is something she would never have enjoyed, even on her best day, because of her fear of heights.

A shot of the stone spiral staircase that is the only way up the South Tower. Keep in mind that people are gong up and down this narrow passage at the same time. It is not for the faint of heart.

On our way back to the bus which would take us back to the ship, we passed another macabre place where the Rambler would have stopped if she hadn’t needed to keep up with her group., This was the Kaisergruft (Imperial Crypt) in the Capuchin Church, just around the corner from the Stephansdom.

The Capuchin church is a plain Jane compared to the Stephansdom, but there is a lot going on underneath its floor…

The 17th century church has a simple exterior but the large crypt underneath holds the remains of a dozen Hapsburg emperors and even more empresses and queens plus children and family members; 146 in all.

Skulls feature prominently in many of the tomb displays; Sic transit Gloria mundi!

The last Hapsburg burial was in 2011, Here you will find the tomb of Franz Josef and Empress Sisi (Elizabeth of Bavaria) and their ill-fated son, Prince Rudolph. It is a fascinatingly macabre place, and the tombs themselves are masterpieces of sculpture. Even more strange, the hearts of some, but not all, are held in small urns in a special heart crypt, (Herzgruft) along with the large mausoleums and tombs.

The tomb of Maria Theresa, perhaps the most successful female European ruler. She reigned during the Golden Age of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It is certainly not as gruesome as some.

Back in the sunshine after our virtual stay in the Kaisergruft, we headed back to the River Princess for the daily port talk and a special early dinner buffet. Unusual, since the evening meal is a sit down dinner, the buffet was scheduled so that the large group going to the Abbey that evening, would not go off hungry. It was a nice touch. The rest of us, enjoyed a relaxing evening on board after a busy day in Vienna.

Arrival day on a river cruise, Franz Joseph and Sisi, Maria am Gestade, St. Francis of Assisi Church

ON Board the River Princess in Vienna

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Our last morning at the Palais Hansen, we packed our cases after another excellent breakfast and headed for the lobby. There we met a few other couples who were also headed to the River Princess. Pick-up is usually in the afternoon as the housekeeping staff has bas to work hard to clean all the staterooms after the last passengers check out at 8:30. Of course there are always stragglers, and not all passengers leave for the airport before 8 AM. Those who have afternoon flights are welcome to stay onboard and even enjoy a light lunch before they leave. The one thing they can’t do is get back into their room!

Cruises usually, tho not always, end on Saturday, and start on Sunday afternoon. One thing I have always wanted to do when staying in a city with many Catholic churches like Vienna, is to attend Sunday mass. However I have never been able to accomplish this feat on any of our cruises. This Sunday, I had located a church fairly close by -the Votiv Kirche was just too far. It had a mass in the morning, and it seemed that this time, I would actually manage to get to church. But there is always a hitch, and in this case, it was a good one.

Close up of the altar in Maria am Gestade, with beautiful stained glass.

The church in question was Maria am Gestade, which translates to the church of Mary at the Shore. It is one of the oldest in Vienna, having been consecrated in 1415, and recently has been beautifully restored. Sounds wonderful, right? Well the hitch was that the entrance is at the top of a long flight of stairs – with no railings. Long staircases are not the friend of the Rambler, and my heart sank when I saw the photo. There would be no visit to Maria am Gestade this morning. Instead, the Ramblers relaxed in the Palais Hansen’s huge lobby while waiting for the Uniworld bus.

Stairs and more stairs, thwarted again! I learned that it used to be on the band of a small river. The river was diverted, the ground sank and stairs were needed to reach the church after the bridge was torn down.

Onboard the bus on the way to the ship, the Ramblers again passed by St. Francis of Assisi Church, very distinctive with its red tile roof. We had passed it several times when we rode the Big Red Bus. Unfortunately it was not a tour bus stop nor was it a place we would visit with our Uniworld tour groups. However, it was clearly visible from onboard the River Princess, so near and yet so far. More about it later… The Ramblers were very surprised to see the many river cruise ships lined up along the Reichsbrucke dock. At least a dozen companies were represented, including many whose main market is in Europe. Because of the number of ships in port, rafting was necessary.

A view of the Reichsbrucke dock facing the other direction. An equal number of ships were docked in the other direction.

For those of you new to the blog, rafting means that instead of being tied up to the dock, some ships must tie up or raft to a ship that is already there. Thus to get onboard or disembark, one must walk through the docked ship to get to the rafted ship. Obviously this is not ideal, but it becomes necessary at popular ports at the busiest times of the year. Viking often has their own docks, tho not here, but they also have the most ships, which usually raft up to each other if necessary. This time the River Princess was the rafted ship, so we had to walk through a Scenic ship to board. Fortunately, the cabin stewards took care of our luggage, which they moved to our room.

Taken onboard ship from the sundeck. We were rafted next to a Scenic ship. St. Francis of Assisi Church is in the background center..

The Ramblers had visited Vienna twice before, the first time on a Christmas Markets cruise, when there were only a few ships docked. The second time, we ended up at the Ritz Carlton, courtesy of Uniworld, because of low water issues. This time our cruise began during July, the most popular month for river cruising, and also the month when many Europeans take their vacations. Seeing the dozens of ships docked along the Danube was a revelation to the Ramblers. It shows the rampant popularity of river cruising and the difference in numbers between off season and high season cruising. So you ask, why did the Rambler book during the busiest season? It had to do with trying to estimate when the water levels in the Rhine and Danube would be neither too high (spring) or two low ( later in the summer and early fall.) Because we had our August cruise cancelled last summer, it seemed like a good idea to travel a month earlier. We would have no low water issues but would find some of our stops crowded with tourists like us.

The first day of a river cruise is usually a leisurely one, as the passengers arrive during the afternoon. The early arrivals can get a bite to eat, or something to drink and even stroll around the quay. Many like the Ramblers, arrive the day before. Although our ship would stay in Vienna for 3 nights, on this cruise, many cruises leave by 5 or 6 PM on the first day, If you miss your sailing time, it is often very difficult to catch up with your ship, as most stops are in small towns with no direct transportation. Fortunately this has never happened to the Ramblers.

With the rise of terrorist threats, Uniworld security is always visible and photo ID cards are always checked when boarding. Then everyone is photographed for their ship ID which is needed to get off and on the ship. To the Ramblers, this seemed like a great idea. Not only did the staff know who was missing but what they looked like.

The staff, waiting to welcome the passengers on board, as on all Uniworld ships, the front desk area always has unique and very attractive decor. In this case, it was a giant chandelier.

By 6 PM, almost everyone was on board, and so the ubiquitous safety drill was held. We got to meet Captain Ronny, a tall, bearded Dutchman who very much looked the part of an experienced mariner. We soon found out he was indeed an excellent Captain. Of course a safety drill is part of any cruise, and many passengers don’t think it is necessary given the relatively shallow depth of most European rivers. However, although there are shallow areas, the Rhine and Danube have powerful currents, and cruise passengers have drowned in the past. Always good to be aware of this drill, tho there are no lifeboats involved, exit points are very important.

Next the staff was introduced; we would get to know many of them in the next two weeks. Finally it was time for the Cruise Manager, Heidicha Smith, to give her overview of our voyage. She was a very personable and attractive host, and seemed to have the ability to be in two places at the same time. At the same time, we got to meet some of our fellow passengers, although most were somewhat jet lagged. For the first time, the Ramblers met a large Chinese family onboard, including a 93 year old grandmother, parents, children, and grandchildren, including a very lively 4 year old. We later learned that they were from Taiwan and would go on from Europe to tour the United States; quite a trip with such a large group. There is a growing Chinese/Asian tourist presence in Europe, although the COVID crisis has no doubt affected it to some degree.

Afterwards, the Ramblers strolled around the quay, tho we didn’t go far. There were stairs to the bridge that led to the area around the dock but we were content to observe the activity around the quay. And there was St. Francis of Assisi church again. I later learned that it was built between 1895-1910 to commemorate the 50th Anniversary of Franz Joseph’s reign. It is ironic that although his reign was long it was a disaster for the Empire,. Yet Franz Joseph is commemorated everywhere you turn in Vienna. Much like Queen Victoria, he became a beloved icon in his later years despite his failures. Of course Vienna was the heart of the Austro-Hungarian Empire which ended with its defeat in WWI.

I found this great photo of St. Francis of Assisi Church on Wikimedia, uploaded by Bwag. Do you suppose it was taken with a drone? In the background you can see the Prater and the Riesenrad.

The Elizabeth chapel was added during the construction of the church in 1898 to commemorate Empress Sisi (Elizabeth) after her assassination in that year. The chapel in her honor was funded by donations from the Red Cross, as she was its First Protector.

The interior of the Elizabeth chapel. The decor is real gold leaf, because of the most generous contributions of the Red Cross.

Today it seems that the Red Cross has been around forever, but it was actually founded in 1863, in Switzerland, and took a while to get established. Like her husband, Franz Joseph, Sisi remains a very popular figure throughout the former empire and you will see her image in many places, including boxes of tea.

A photo of the Emperor in his later years, he does not look like a happy man, but would survive WWI an live in exile in the Netherlands.

A little about Franz Joseph and Sisi… Franz Joseph, the last Hapsburg ruler of the Austro-Hungarian empire ruled over an empire that was falling apart. He married Elizabeth, Sisi, a strikingly beautiful Bavarian princess and together they had 4 children. Unfortunately their only son died in a suicide pact with his sweetheart because he was not allowed to marry her. She was a commoner. The loss of the heir was traumatic to the couple and drove them apart. Franz Joseph became increasingly rigid in his ideas about ruling the Empire as he aged.

The Empress Elizabeth in 1864, with her famous long hair on display. In an era when upper class women wore their hair long, hers stood out.

Although Sisi was loved by the people for her many good qualities, she was obsessed with maintaining her good looks. She kept to a s strict diet and exercise routine, unusual for a 19th century woman. Another obsession was her very long hair, which took much time and care. She traveled almost constantly, probably to escape her personal demons, but did not care for the typical social life of royalty. Again, unusual for the time, she had only one companion, a Hungarian lady in waiting. This made it easy for her assassin to approach her.

The last photo taken of Elizabeth with her companion, before she was stabbed by an assassin. Because her corset was so tight, her wound bled very little tho she was stabbed in the heart. No one realized the extent of her injury at first.

Thus St. Francis of Assisi is a striking and beautiful church popular with the English-speaking residents of Vienna and it commemorates perhaps the two most famous people in Vienna. The church is situated very close to the Danube on Mexico Square,(Mexicoplatz), however the river in front of the church is actually the Danube canal not the main branch of the river. An island separates the canal from the main river.

Why is there a Mexico Square in Vienna? Because Mexico was the only country (beside the Soviet Union) to protest the Anschluss, Hitler’s takeover of Austria in 1938.

We would have two more days in Vienna to take advantage of its many attractions before the River Princess set sail for our next stop at Rossatz, Austria.