Tag Archives: Hildegard of Bingen

The Rambler enjoys Rudesheimer coffee after a village tour

Rudesheim is a delightful town with many quaint buildings and a museum or two. It is also the home of the famous Asbach Uralt brandy and and many vineyards. Perhaps more importantly, it is close to Ebingen Abbey, the spiritual home of the 11th century mystic, musician, advocate of healthy eating and holistic medicine, not to mention saint, Hildegard of Bingen.

Kloster Eibingen01.JPG
Eibingen Abbey; not far from the river but an uphill walk. You will enjoy your visit.

Although she has been considered a saint for centuries, Hildegard was never formally canonized by the Catholic Church. When German Pope Benedict XV, realized this, he proclaimed her sainthood immediately to rectify this omission. On our last visit to Rudesheim, I made my way to the Abbey and found it a powerful experience. Although I did not get to revist the Abbey this time, I did provide directions and information for another guest who wanted to go there. She enjoyed her visit very much

On this sunny morning, I decided to go on the village stroll with some congenial friends. The senior Rambler was delighted to stay behind; since we were docked in town, he could happily walk around on his own. Rudesheim is one of those towns with what the Europeans call a “a tiny tourist train,” that saves walking from the dock area to the historic district and back again. These trains are all pretty small, but the Rudesheim one is really tiny; some of the larger members of our tour had a hard time getting in –and out.

A very tiny train can in which at least four people squeezed into.

Of course when we wanted to go back to the ship, the tiny train was no where in sight. The Rambler thinks it is a ploy to force the cruisers to walk past the shops that line the street facing the river on the way back to their ship. On the plus side, it is a pleasant stroll and one can walk along the river as well. Considering all, Rudesheim is the last small towns we would visit on this cruise, and many of our group, including the Rambler would indeed buy some souveniers from shops we passed on the way back.

Fortunately no one got stuck inside a tiny train car on the way to our destination downtown. so we all climbed out in the heart of the historic district. There our smiling guide was already waiting. Before we started our stroll, we visited a local chocolate shop to have a chocolate tasting. Fortunately it was a tiny tasting, to go with the tiny train, perhaps. The Rambler likes her chocolate well enough, but not so much at 10 AM in the morning.

During the tour, we walked past the Drosselgasses, which the Rudesheimers promote as the narrowest street in Germany. The Rambler is not sure about this but it is both narrow and steep and lined with inviting weinstubes, restaurants and hostelries.

A look down the Drosselgasse; it is very narrow and paved with the Rambler’s favorite, cobblestones.

We did have a treat in store before our tour was over, a stop at the Rudesheimer Schloss for the signature drink of the town; a Rudesheimer coffee. The folks who had gone on the Rudesheim tour split into several groups mostly based on walking speed but all the tours ended at the Rudesheimer Schloss for our special coffee; and special it was. The staff at ther Schloss Rudeseim are used to serving Rudesheimer coffee to large groups and after a brief welcome by the proprietor, the waitresses dressed in traditional costume set to work. First hot coffee was poured into special cups, then the Asbach Uralt brandy produced near here was added. Finally the steaming cup was topped with freshly whipped cream. Then the coffees were quickly delivered to our tables and enjoyed by all who love coffee, brandy and whipped cream.

Rudesheimer coffee served to some of our friends from South Africa.

Walking back to our boat, I reflected that Rudesheim was bombed heavily during WWII, The main reason was because of the Hindenburg bridge which linked Rudesheim with Bingen across the Danube. Bombing was not a precise science during WWII and many non-strategic buildings were also damaged. Although most of these buildings were rebuilt, the bridge was destoyed and not rebuilt,;only parts of the once massive structure remain. In Rudesheim,as in many other German towns, medieval buildings were painstakingly rebuilt using salvaged materials whenever possible. Unless you look at photos taken immediately after the war, it hard to imagine how much was detroyed during the war.

Bridge remains, 1959. Author: WSA Mannheim – CC BY-SA 4.0
One of the remaining parts of the once strategic Hindenburg bridge.

Rudesheim today might be considered touristy by a purist, but it is at the center of the Rhine wine industry. Much tasty wine is made in the surrounding area and many Germans stay in the area while doing a series of visites to local wineries. We did not visit any wine estates on this cruise but sailed past many hillsides covered with vines.

Rudesheim is also situated close to the Rhine Gorge which probably helped make it a UNESCO World Heritage site, as well as the Lorelei Valley. a very picturesque area of the river. Since it is a popular vacation spot for Germans as well as a regular stop for a number of river cruise lines, the local buisness hopefully have been able to keep going during the Pandemic years. The Ramblers were fortunate to take our last cruise together before the onset of the virus, virtually shut down travel.

The Rambler headed back towards the ship with along with Jean, one of our cruise pals, stopping at a few shops along the way. Even in Germany, it is sometimes difficult to find items that are actually produced there. I was lucky enough to find a t-shirt for my young grandson that was actually made in Germany on the way back, not an easy task.

Of course the senior Rambler was waiting for me when we got to the ship, and I was very glad to see him as it had been quite the long walk. Yet it had been a pleasant stroll in good company and the last time we would enjoy the atmosphere of a small German town. Our cruise was almost over and it would end in the very busy metropolis of Amsterdam.

The next day would be spent cruising through the Rhine Gorge, with a brief stop at Koln (Cologne) and then on to Amsterdam, where we would disembark. This time, the Ramblers would spend a few days in Amsterdam to relax before heading back to Atlanta.

The Rambler’s visit with Hildegard of Bingen at rudesheim

None of the stops on the Rhine are too far apart, even on the river, and much closer by land, so the River Queen arrived at our next port, Rudesheim, after lunch. The offered tour was of Siegfried’s Museum of Mechanical Musical Instruments, which is one of the major tourist attractions of Rudesheim. However, the Rambler had other plans. Going to a museum on a beautiful, hot, sunny day had no appeal. Besides, i had learned that Rudesheim had a strong connection to the amazing Abbess Hildegard, a 12th century physician, mystic, philosopher and musician. I hadn’t connected Rudesheim and Hildegard the last time we visited but now, armed with this new information, I was determined to visit her abbey on my own.

A youthful Abbess Hildegard surveys her Abbey with the Rhine at her back.

But first a little about Rudesheim. There are actually two of them, but Rudesheim on the Rhine is the larger and often visited by tourists on river cruises. Around 10,000 live in Rudesheim, another UNESCO site, like Boppard, because of its proximity to the Rhine gorge. Like Boppard, it is surrounded by vineyards and has a wine museum housed in the ruins of an historic castle. The last time the Ramblers visited Rudesheim, we took the cable car to the top of a steep hill overlooking the Rhine. It is a fun ride as it skims over the vineyards and deposits its passengers near the Niederwald monument which I wrote about in an earlier post. The Ramblers encourage you to take the cable car ride, as it is fun. From there you can walk down a paved path, return by cable car or even hike through the vineyards to the historic area of town.

Rudesheim also boasts the Drosselgasse, a narrow and steep medieval street paved with cobblestones and lined with quaint houses, shops and taverns. There you might enjoy a Rudesheimer coffee, the town’s most famous potent potable, made up of coffee, Asbach brandy and whipped cream. The headquarters and tasting room of the Asbach company is in Rudesheim. I have read mixed reviews of the tour and tasting, but Asbach Uralt is worth a taste if you enjoy brandy.

Talk about an uncomfortable chair… from the Torture Museum

Another tourist spot that the Ramblers didn’t visit was the medieval torture museum. According to reviewers, it is a creepy place and here is a link if you are interested…
http://www.foltermuseum.com/index_us.html Somehow, looking at the ways people inflicted pain on others during the middle ages had no appeal, in today’s world that has enough bad things going on.

Instead I wanted to visit the Abbey of Eibingen which was founded by Hildegard even tho the current buildings are relatively new. I set off by myself as the Senior Rambler preferred to relax on board the River Queen. The Abbey is still home to cloistered Benedictine nuns who follow the thousand year old rule of St. Benedict. That means when you visit the Abbey, you probably won’t seen many nuns as most live a secluded life by choice. You may hear them singing in the choir loft, or perhaps playing the organ in the church. The Abbey has it’s own website which I wish I had found before my visit. It has everything you need to know about the history and current world of the Benedictine Abbey and even a series of meditations if you are so inclined. https://www.abtei-st-hildegard.de/english/

The ruins of the original Abbey destroyed after the area was secularized early in the the 19th century

When I checked with our concierge about how to get there, he strongly suggested I take a taxi, as the path to the Abbey was all uphill and it was 90 degrees Fahrenheit outside. I was glad that I took his advice as the Rambler would have been a sweaty mess by the time she got to the top. I quickly learned that Eibingen Abbey is a popular stop for pilgrim groups. A hardy group of hikers equipped with staffs and sturdy shoes, were heading towards the abbey on a hilly vineyard path as I arrived in my taxi.

Heading towards the welcoming entrance of the Abbey Church…

One word of advice for anyone who wants to visit the Abbey. If you take a taxi there, please ask the driver to return to pick you up, in perhaps an hour. Most of the people at the Abbey do not speak English and can’t help you. Uber may work, but i didn’t have the app at the time. Check Uber out before you leave or you may have a long walk back to your ship. On the positive side, you won’t get lost, just head downhill towards the river!

So why did I want to visit Hildegard’s Abbey? Hildegard was born in 1198, and died at 81, although she suffered from ill health all her life. her wealthy parents dedicated her to God as they probably thought she wouldn’t do much or live long. They were so wrong. Hildegard lived to inspire countless generations with her visions, her writing, her medical expertise, her espousal of correct eating, her music and her leadership. She dealt with saints and sinners during her long life. Although not canonized until recently, many have asked her intercession and she was recently declared a Doctor of the (Catholic) Church. When Benedict XV visited Eibingen and talked to the Benedictines about St. Hildegard, they responded that she had never been formally recognized as a saint despite her obvious sanctity. Benedict was quick to remedy this oversight and how she is formally St. Hildegard of Bingen.

The simple beauty of the interior, very different than most churches we visited in Germany, but also much newer. The organ is in the upper right hand corner.

The current Abbey was built towards the end of the 19th century when the nuns returned to Bingen. Most Americans are unaware that Germany was secularized at the time of Napoleon Bonaparte. Religious were forced to leave and the land was sold. The nobleman who bought the land let the historic Abbey become a ruin. Thus the church and complex was rebuilt when the Benedictine sisters returned. There is a detailed description of this period on their website. as well as photographs.

My first stop at the Abbey was its imposing church. Its design must have pleased Hildegard as it is beautiful in its simplicity. A steady stream of pilgrims entered to kneel and pray during my visit. While I was there, I heard the sound of an organ, and thought, how nice to have music, thinking it was a recording. Then I noticed a few of the pilgrims moving to the front of the church and looking up to to the right There one of the Benedictines was playing the organ. It was a special moment.

My next stop was the shop where the nuns sold their wines, crafts and whole grain foods for the diet that was first developed by Hildegard. She was an early proponent of a largely vegetarian diet which featured whole grains. Her thousand year old concept of eating to live is similar to those championed by vegetarians, vegans and diets which suggest eating a modest amount of animal protein and lots of vegetables. The most unlikely aspect of the shop was that often Benedictine nuns staff the wine tasting table in the store. That day, the tasting host was a lay person but a charming nun manned the cash register.

The Abbey is surrounded by its vineyards. You can see the Rhine in the distance where the River Queen was docked. It would have been quite a hike on a 90 degree day.

I then went outside to enjoy the beautiful view high above the Rhine but realized it was getting late and it was time to get a taxi back t o the ship. The Abbey has a little cafe which sells modest meals and drinks. I though surely someone there would be able to call a taxi. However, i got no response from the handsome young man behind the counter. A smiling older woman came to his aid. She gently explained that Patrick spoke little and understood no English. In fact the cafe was staffed by people with a variety of handicaps. She then told me that Patrick would love to have his picture taken, and so the photo you see below is a poignant remembrance of my visit and the kindness of the people who work and live at the Abbey. She then called a taxi for me and I got back to the River Queen with time to spare.

Patrick smiling proudly for his photo with his kind and caring boss.

I was so glad I visited the Abbey that beautiful day and recommend it heartily. Even if you are not religious, you will find it a place of peace, love and understanding.

On to Speyer!